Turning 26 in Totnes
- Brielle Whittington
- Nov 20
- 9 min read
*This blog was written after my birthday trip to Totnes, Devon in 2024.
You know that photo you hated so much at the time because you thought you looked funny or had too much weight on, but you look at it now and wonder why you were ever so harsh on yourself? I feel like getting older is a lot like that. You look back on your past with a greater kindness to yourself, and there's greater capacity for empathy, forgiveness, and even fondness for yourself ... you can hold yourself with a lot more compassion and gentleness than you could before.
There's still a fair few lessons to be learned, but I'm learning and growing every day, and the 18th of November marks the official celebration of that, or that's at least how I look at birthdays. (My birthday is now extra special because on this day in 2023, my husband proposed to me.) So, to celebrate these milestones and moments, Caleb and I decided to spend a few days in the countryside in Totnes, Devon.
Day 1: Good Food, Good Views
Totnes is just under 4 hours from London by car or about 3 hours by train. We opted for our car so we could have a nice mini-road trip. We were accompanied by my carefully curated "autumnal adventures" playlist to ensure we were setting the mood for the holiday perfectly. Something about a road trip with the right tunes makes me feel like the main character in a feel-good film.
We couldn't check into our Airbnb until 4 p.m., so when we arrived in Totnes, we made it our mission to get a good coffee and late lunch at The Curator. We opted for the seemingly humble Italian BLTs and flat whites, perched at a window seat upstairs and allowed ourselves to enjoy our sandwiches in all their messy glory. I always say the best meals require you to forget your table manners.
Once we were fueled up on focaccia and caffeine, we took our time strolling through the high street and little alleyways. Totnes has a pretty decent thrift scene; I scored a few tops and sweaters and Caleb got a coat that usually costs anywhere from 200-300 pounds. Each item was under £8. The curated vintage shops were a bit more spenny, and while it was my birthday, I couldn't justify spending that kind of money when I was surrounded by so many affordable charity shops. However, I did walk inside each and every vintage shop just to drool over all the pieces.
We popped into Butterwalk for some lemonades and a peek at their shop in the back. For a Monday afternoon, it was lively and full of people meeting up for coffees or solo dates. I half expected a sleepy town, but I was pleasantly surprised to find it was rather buzzy. We had passed the time quickly by popping in and out of shops, so we made our way to the cabin we rented, checked in and freshened up before dinner.
Our Airbnb was the perfect little cabin tucked away in the rolling hills and single-lane country roads. It had a wood stove for heating and an outdoor gas shower. It wasn't quite as rustic as a sleeping bag and tent in the woods, but it wasn't like living in the city either. It was perfect. Our host lived in the main building just in front of the cabin, and we would occasionally bump into her for a quick and pleasant chat. There was another small cabin near us with an older couple who had also rented it out for a short time. They came out to talk to us one morning as we were scraping ice off the car. The woman got us some lukewarm water to pour over the car to melt the ice. It was really wholesome. I think the kindness of the people made the experience all the sweeter, and we found that same hospitality in all areas of Totnes.
So, how did I come to know of Totnes? Well, I had wanted to go since I discovered The Bull Inn -- a stunning, ethical and sustainable restaurant & boutique hotel. I stumbled across it on Instagram one day and just became obsessed with the idea of spending a weekend in Totnes and visiting The Bull Inn. (Yeah, it was a hotel that hooked me, but I'm glad it did because we discovered the whole of the little village carried that same charming allure as the hotel.) So, after settling into our little cabin and freshening up, we made our way into town to grab drinks and dinner at The Bull Inn and oh my gosh was it perfect.
They change the menu frequently and do seasonal dishes, which means they hand-write their menu on a large chalk board and carry it around to the tables for guests to view. The staff explains the concept and menu and helps you pick out some dishes based on what you like. My first priority was an espresso martini, though (their epresso martini is mad with the discarded espresso from throughout the day, so it has a nice smoothness to it similar to a cold brew). Once that was secured, we analysed the menu but determined we could pick with our eyes closed and be more than satisfied.
I love sitting in a cosy restaurant and laughing and chatting endlessly (and Caleb makes a good partner to do that with, so it was an exceptionally good time). Thankfully, The Bull Inn creates an inviting environment that makes it easy for you to settle in and sip, chat and laugh for ages.
Once we devoured dessert and our final cocktail, we strolled back to the car and had a quick ride back to the cabin where we immediately got to work on creating a fire for the evening (and by we, I mean, Caleb ... I got into bed under the guise of "getting it warm for us").
Surprisingly, the little wood stove was able to heat the cabin rather well. Admittedly, we did initially struggle to get the fire going, but once it was burning, it lasted throughout the night.
Day 2: Like Icarus Flying too Close to the Sun, Caleb Ran too Close to the Ocean
A wood stove is charming, but when you wake up to freezing temperatures and can't just automatically turn some heat on, you realise you are indeed a privileged city girl. We obviously can't leave a fire unattended, especially in a wood cabin, and we weren't going to be around long enough to justify starting a new one, so we got ready for the day in the freezing cold (which did encourage me to get ready faster than I usually would). I told Caleb we should add a portable mini heater to our packing list next time we do something like this.
Once we got ready, we blasted the heat in the car and made our way to The Almond Thief Bakery. (This has sadly since closed down but a new bakery has taken over.) My favourite thing about this spot was that there was no covering up the behind-the-scenes; you could see the kitchen where they were preparing and baking, and the other half of the building was split between some seating and equipment storage. You could tell that they were first and foremost focused on the quality of each baked good they made. Oh, and the coffee was sourced from Origin, which is a roaster I adore (so too does most of Europe) so we ordered two flat whites to-go alongside 3 pastries and a cheeky chocolate cookie... or two.
The pastries were devoured in the car as we drove to Dartmouth to spend the morning exploring the town and Blackpool Sands Beach. (Can I just note that somehow every little village and town in the UK is so quaint and pretty. Just look at the photos!)
Something I really loved about this trip is that I didn't have much on the itinerary, so it gave us the opportunity just to rove around and let our curiosity lead. We ended up in a little second-hand bookshop because of this tactic. My favourite second-hand bookshops are the ones where there are so many books, they just haphazardly stack them and pray no one gets hurt, and that's exactly what this shop was like. The lady running it was so friendly, and we chatted for a few minutes then dashed off with a few more books to add to our collection.
We looked in every single charity shop, found an old fortress and admired the views as we dangled our feet out over the water just below the large fortress window. We walked along the river then drove over to the beach where Caleb got too close to the water and soaked his shoes. Here's him laughing hysterically while running away in his freshly soaked trainers:
We ventured back to Totnes for lunch at Seeds 2 Totnes for a vegetarian buffet. We have a similar spot in London that we frequent (shoutout to OctaGreen), so we were excited to give this place a go, and it was just what we needed. Not pictured is the massive bowl of green olives at the end of the buffet line ... it was heavenly. (I am the girl who eats olives straight from the jar, so you can understand why this would have been exciting for me.)
We wandered into a few of the shops we didn't get around to the day before like Me and East (where I got the most incredible smelling bar of soap ... you know you're maturing when bar soaps excite you) then nestled into a corner of The Hairy Barista for our second flat white of the day and this sweet little treat that I've since forgotten the name of but will never forget the taste.
It was another slow afternoon spent thrifting, aimlessly wandering, and devouring yummy treats. Basically, it was a perfect day.
Though Totnes Castle wasn't open, we did walk that way just to get a view of it from the entrance. We then marched back up the street and found our way to the first reservation for the night, Angel Bar and Kitchen. When people ask me what my favourite part of Totnes was, I immediately mention this bar. Not only were the drinks just perfect (I had a ginger martini ... very inventive and frankly, delicious) but the service was even better (which I didn't think could be possible).
On our reservation, I had written that we were celebrating my 26th birthday and the 1 year anniversary of our engagement. The ladies serving us were so invested in our story and asked us questions about how we met and how Caleb proposed. I was actually so bummed to be leaving for our dinner reservation because the atmosphere, service and drinks were just what I needed. However, I wanted to try as many spots as I could within the short amount of time we had, so we made our way down the street to Rumour Kitchen and Bar.
The restaurant was buzzing for a Tuesday night, almost as if it was the first Saturday after pay day. Their menu includes the usual suspects like pizza, steak and seafood but all done very well. Caleb opted for a duck dish while I got the steak. I paired my meal with an espresso martini (obvs) while Caleb got his tried and true rum and coke.
Afer hours of chats and laughs, it was time to take our full bellies to bed. So, we hopped in the car, blasted the heat and made the short journey back to our Airbnb.
Day 3: One Last Chocolate Cookie and Flat White for the Road
Now, I know I said I wanted to try as many different places as possible, but The Almond Thief Bakery was so good we had to go again for breakfast on day three of our trip (again, RIP. So sad this place closed). I was rather disappointed this bakery wouldn't be coming back to London with us, so I had to get my fill in before leaving it behind. Again, we ordered several pastries and the same gorgeous chocolate cookies with two flat whites. This time, we sat inside for a while and made friends with a dog that was hoping to secure one of our pastries. He was cute, but I wasn't sacrificing my cheese roll for him.
Sticking to the theme of the trip, we just wanted a relaxed day where we could stroll and enjoy the sights. Thankfully, for the first time during the little vacation, the sun was out. So, we took the opportunity to explore Dartington Estate -- a gorgeous, historic building with an insanely beautiful garden.
We roved through the estate with no cares about the time, which was a nice change of pace compared to the usual hustle and bustle we experience in London. Tucked away to the side of the grand estate was a bagel shop that looked like a perfect little spot to grab a bite before the journey back to London. Montreal Style Bagels serves up these colourful and large bagel platters ranging from savory to sweet. We opted for a savory bagel filled with beef, mustard, tomatoes, lettuce and gerkins (with a side of orange slices because we here in the UK need the vitamin D).
As we drove back to London, we reflected on how sweet it was to explore the countryside and celebrate so many beautiful milestones and memories. And now, our trip to Totnes is a memory we cherish and reflect on, as well.
Mentioned in this blog:
The Almond Thief (now The Daily Knead)
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